The global craft beer revolution has introduced an unprecedented variety of flavors and brewing techniques, shaking up traditional beer markets worldwide. Among the most intriguing developments is the introduction of U.S. craft beer into Germany, a country steeped in centuries-old brewing traditions and governed by stringent purity laws.
Stone Brewing, a prominent American craft brewery from California, took its first big steps into the German market back in 2015, making it the first independently built, owned, and operated American craft brewery in Europe. Founded in 1996 by Greg Koch and Steve Wagner, Stone ranks among the largest craft brewers in the United States. Renowned for its bold and hoppy beers, particularly its flagship Stone IPA, the brewery has become a key player in the craft beer movement. Stone Brewing prides itself on its innovative brewing techniques and commitment to high-quality ingredients, producing a wide range of styles that appeal to both traditional beer enthusiasts and adventurous drinkers. In addition to its impressive beer lineup, Stone operates several bistros and taprooms, fostering a vibrant community around its brand and contributing significantly to craft beer culture.
At the time of Stone’s expansion across the Atlantic, the craft beer scene was beginning to pick up in Europe. With nearly 20 years of history and a global fan base, Stone seemed well-equipped to take on the German market. However, less than five years after opening Stone Brewing Berlin, the international production facility and bistro were sold to Brewdog. Stone’s craft beer business in Europe was on a different trajectory than it was in the States. We spoke with Jeremy Moynier, a seasoned expert in brewing management and innovation at Stone Brewing, to learn more about the journey of U.S. craft beer into Germany, the challenges faced, and the opportunities for the future.
Before we get into it, what exactly is craft beer?
Defined by its commitment to quality, flavor, and traditional brewing methods, craft beer is often produced by small, independent breweries. Unlike mass-produced “normal” beer, which typically aims for consistency and broad market appeal, craft beer focuses on unique and diverse flavors, often using novel ingredients and techniques. “Craft beer really came out of a desire to have something different and more choice. At the time, the beer market lacked variety. There were a lot of good beers, but not the variety that you see now,” reflects Moynier. This drive for novelty and uniqueness has been the cornerstone of the craft beer industry, leading to new beer varieties, such as the beloved Pale Ale, the most popular craft beer style today.
Challenges of expanding into a traditional market
The craft beer movement took off in the U.S. in the 1970s, earlier than in Europe, where it only gained significant momentum in the 2000s. Attempts to establish U.S. craft beer in Europe, particularly in countries with strong beer traditions, have encountered a fair share of hurdles. As a first-mover, Stone Brewing faced these obstacles head on. “It’s been a challenge for us. Going into a different market comes with a whole different set of challenges and rules,” Moynier explains. Germany’s deep-rooted beer culture and loyal consumer base favor traditional brews, making it a tough market to penetrate. “We found out early on that Europe, especially Germany, favored traditional beers. The consumers are very loyal and brand loyal as well.”
Moynier candidly discusses the initial missteps in their approach. “We discovered that the timing wasn’t right initially. We were trying to go too big. But by staying true to our brand and offering high-quality products, we’ve managed to build a dedicated fan base,” he says. As Moynier reveals, entering an established market requires, above all else, patience and the ability to adapt.
The ingredient to success: Innovation within boundaries
Germany’s Reinheitsgebot, or beer purity law, restricts beer ingredients to water, barley, hops, and yeast. Despite these constraints, many U.S. craft brewers have found ways to innovate within these traditional boundaries. “One thing that’s unique about Stone Brewing is the focus on real ingredients. We’re not using flavorings or artificial ingredients. We’re always looking at real ingredients,” Moynier emphasizes. Even within these constraints, the variety of hops available globally provides ample opportunity for flavor innovation. “The hop industry here offers so many choices and varieties. U.S. hops are known for their bold and aromatic qualities, which can add unique citrus, pine, and floral notes to a beer,” Moynier notes. This extensive selection enables brewers to craft distinctive flavors that stand out in the market. “Different hops can be used to steer the flavors in a particular direction. For instance, using certain aroma hops can enhance the citrusy or tropical fruit notes in an IPA, while other hops might emphasize earthy or spicy characteristics,” he explains. This flexibility is a hallmark of the craft beer movement, allowing for continuous transformation.
Mutual influences and future trends
The interaction between U.S. craft beer and German beer culture has been mutually enriching. “One thing I’ve seen, as craft has broadened out, is the appearance of more lower ABV beers and more pilsners. That’s definitely an influence from European traditions,” Moynier observes. Conversely, U.S. hops have made a significant impact in Europe. “U.S. hops are always being looked at from Germany, Europe, and other breweries around the world,” he adds. European brewers are increasingly drawn to the broad variety of flavor profiles offered by U.S. hops, as they provide possibilities for new flavor combinations without adding any other ingredients.
The demand for craft beer has been steadily growing over recent years and is projected to continue this trend in the foreseeable future. Looking ahead, Moynier anticipates more craft beer opportunities in Europe, revealing some of Stone Brewing’s plans. “We still do special releases. The next one to come over that way is our Double Bastard. We haven’t done it since 2016, so it’s fun to release that as a special release,” he reveals. Upcoming beers also include those featuring new U.S. hops like Zumology IPA with Zumo hops and more approachable options like Stone Hazy IPA, featuring intense creamsicle, peach and pineapple flavors as well as the Stone Buenaveza Salt Lime Lager, a Baja-inspired Mexican lager brewed with sea salt and lime.
Although Germany’s traditional beer market may have initially been reluctant to welcome international brewers, the enthusiasm within the growing craft beer scene reveals significant opportunities. “We learned Germans were more interested in our U.S. craft beers versus us brewing craft beers in Germany. They have long heard about and respected our beers in the U.S., and getting the exact thing that the craft beer community is enjoying here is special to them,” Moynier remarks.
Stone’s experience has shown, expanding the range of offerings is essential to appeal to diverse tastes. “We’ve kind of broadened the kinds of beers that we make. We still make a ton of IPAs and high ABV bitter beers, but we have more offerings now, and I think that works well with the German market,” Moynier says.
For more information on Stone Brewery check out www.stonebrewing.com.
And for the latest news on U.S. Craft Beer, check out www.brewersassociation.org.
